臺灣釀酒葡萄品質之檢討

Abstract

葡萄品質的好壞，對於酒的品質有決定性的影響。理想的釀酒葡萄，在外觀上應具備果粒較小，皮薄多汁，著色整齊，成熟而健康等基本性狀。化學成份方面，果汁中的糖份是主要的發酵基質，應在Brix 19~23˚之間，酸度0.65~0.9%，適宜的糖酸比是維持口感平衡的要件。此外，果汁裹含有少量的礦物質、含氮物質、果膠質、酵素與維生素類等成分，與酵母繁殖，酒的口味與安定性，都有密切的關係，果皮果核裹應含有足雊的單寧，呈色與香味物質，才能醞釀成色、香、味具佳的葡萄酒。 臺灣的釀酒葡萄，受地理環境、氣候因子的影響，三十年來，品種方面，仍維持只有金香、奈加拉、黑后三種，而且都屬於美洲種V. labrusca品系的雜交種，品質不俗理想。金香與奈加拉雖然都是白色種，品質卻有明顯的差異。實驗顯示，金香果粒較大，香氣不足；酣類化合物含量較低，口味較薄；但是，酸味爽口，果香清新，適於釀製現行產銷的速釀快熟型餐用白葡萄酒。奈加拉則揮發性香味物質與單寧等酣類物質含量較高，酸度較低，適於釀製餐後飲用的香甜葡萄酒。黑后是唯一的紅酒用品種，紅色素豐富而安定，但酸度過高，香味不足，無法釀成正常品質的紅葡萄酒。目前，與白葡萄混釀成甜味型玫瑰紅酒，尚符國人需要。 為發展臺灣的葡萄酒事業，引進並推廣品質優良的歐洲種V. vinifera系葡萄品種，為唯一的治本之道，惟需假以時日，循序漸進，方克有成。現況下，設法調節產季，慎選產區，限制產量，改進栽培技術，都是改進釀酒葡萄品質的可行途徑。 The quality of grapes is the decisive factor for the quality of wine. Good grapes for wine-making should have some features: smaller grain with thinner skin, juicy, even coloration, optimum matured and in health state. Sugar content of the juice, which is the main substrate of alcohol fermentation, should be Brix 19-23; acidity, O.65%-0.9%, makes the optimum Brix acid ratio to maintain the balance taste of the wine. The juice still contains a little ammount of minerals, nitrogen compounds, pectic substances, enzymes and vitamins, all vital for yeast growth, taste and stability of the wine. There should be sufficient contents of tannin, coloring and flavoring materials in the fruit skin and seeds, which are important for the color, flavor and taste of the wine. There are three varieties of wine grapes in Taiwan---Golden Muscat, Niagara and Black Queen, all hybrids of V. Labrusca series, not good enough in quality. Golden Muscat and Niagara are for White Wine. Golden Muscat has bigger berry size, lacking of flavor and aroma, low level in phenolic compounds and light body, but its fresh sour taste and fruity clear flavor is good for making white table wine. Niagara has higher Brix acid ratio, a little more contents of volatile flavor and phenolic compounds, good for making sweet dessert wine. Black Queen is the only red wine grape, full of stable colorant substances, high acidity, short of flavor and could not be made into good red wine. We blend Black Queen and white grape to make sweet rose. To develop excellent grape wine in Taiwan, we suggest that the only way is to introduce excellent wine grapes such as the European V. Vinifera varieties. Besides, it is also important to adjust the harvest seasons to autumn or winter, selecting optimum cultivating areas, restricting productivity and improving viticulture techniques.