繅絲新製程之利用及產品開發

Abstract

以省產蠶繭為原料，利用繅絲新製程製作鉤針、棒針用絹撚線，並編織製品作性狀調查，其結果如下： 1.繅製27 中及42 中生絲之細度成績均可達CNS 生絲品質檢驗標準之A 級以上。 2.粗丹尼生絲是併線性良好且細度斑少之粗型長纖維，在製造流程方面，若比較傳統上生絲必需倒筒加撚後方可加工之常識係一大突破。 3.粗丹尼生絲近乎無撚狀態，不僅適於精練且染色性甚佳，具獨自特色，由於撚數及撚合根數之改變，可得到多種粗細均一之鉤針用及棒針用之絹撚線。 4.適於鉤針用絹撚線之細度分別約為1160 中、1621 中、1737 中、1962 中、2533 中，利用環錠式撚紗機可製作3233 中至3888 中之棒針用絹撚線，諸撚式絹撚線外觀平滑美觀並可抑制羽毛，為易於棒針編織，左撚150T / M 右撚100T / M 有必要。 5.由絹撚線細度1600 丹尼以上編織之成品，不僅含氣率具膨鬆性效果，且形態保持性佳，能顯示出純意絲高雅光澤。 6.洗濯收縮方面，若將較粗絹撚線之製品與較細絹撚線之製品互相比較，顯示具有較小之收縮率。 In the cocoons and raw silk classification factory, We reeled high denier raw silk and produce some kinds of silk yarns by new reeling process. These pure silk twist yarns was knitted to sweater and some physical characterics was tested. High denier raw silk (weak twisted) is adapted to degunning and dyeing. Different untwist silk yarn numbers and twist numbers we can get seven size pure silk yarns. These pure silk yarns are not only adjust to beard club needle knitted but also the size deviation are fairly good. Pure silk twist yarns were represented by the absence of silk luster. With the increase of size denier,not only the weight of fabrics but also the degree of shape assessment was increase. The mechanical prosperties of knitted sweater composed of these silk twist yarns which were analyzed by using physical test and also the thickness weights value were calculated based in the data. Fabrics knitted by club needle were soft and bulky but the weights were almost more.